Mexico · Drinks and cocktails

Café de olla

Pot brewed coffee with cinnamon and raw cane sugar

Dark coffee steeped in a pot of water simmered with cinnamon, cloves, orange peel and dark raw cane sugar, strained and served sweet and fragrant in clay mugs.

Café de olla

Café de olla means coffee from the pot, and the pot in question is a glazed clay olla, set on the stove with water, a stick of cinnamon and a cone of piloncillo, the dark, unrefined cane sugar sold all over Mexico. Once the sugar has melted and the spices have perfumed the water, coarsely ground coffee goes in to steep, and the whole thing is strained into small clay mugs. It is sweet, spicy and gently earthy, more like a warming tonic than an espresso, and traditionally it belongs to cool mornings and the countryside.

No special equipment is needed. A clay pot adds an earthy note that cooks swear by, but any saucepan makes an excellent cup. It is a wonderful thing to hand around on a cool evening, and Mexico City sits high enough that race weekend mornings can be distinctly crisp before the sun gets to work.

The spiced coffee

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the water, piloncillo, cinnamon, cloves, star anise and orange peel in the pot and set it over medium heat. Bring it to a boil, stirring now and then until the piloncillo dissolves, then lower the heat and simmer gently for 8 minutes.
  2. Turn off the heat. Stir in the ground coffee, cover the pot and leave it to steep for 5 minutes. For a stronger cup, steep for up to 8 minutes, but no longer or it turns bitter.
  3. Pour the coffee slowly through the sieve, lined with a coffee filter or cheesecloth if you have one, into the jug, leaving the last thick spoonful of grounds behind in the pot. Taste and stir in a little more sugar if you like it sweeter.
  4. Pour into the mugs while very hot. Add a fresh cinnamon stick to each mug if you want to dress it up.

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