Malaysia · Trackside classic

Roti canai

Flaky griddled flatbread with lentil dhal curry

A soft, buttery dough stretched until almost transparent, folded into layers and griddled until crisp and flaky, then torn by hand and dipped into a mellow yellow lentil curry.

Roti canai

Roti canai is the breakfast of the mamak restaurants, the round the clock Indian Muslim eateries that are the living rooms of urban Malaysia. Behind the counter, a cook slaps and spins a ball of oiled dough until it is thin enough to read through, folds it into a square and cooks it on a flat griddle, then scrunches it between both hands so the layers burst apart. It arrives with a small bowl of dhal, and often a ladle of fish or chicken curry, and is eaten by hand, tearing off a piece and dragging it through the sauce.

The dish came to the Malay peninsula with South Indian communities and has long since become a national habit, eaten by everyone at every hour. At home the spinning is optional: pressing the dough out with oiled palms on the counter works perfectly well and makes a much smaller mess. The dough rests for hours, so start it in the morning and the roti will be ready to tear when qualifying starts.

The roti dough

Ingredients

Dhal curry

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Stretching and cooking the roti

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