Malaysia · Trackside classic

Rojak buah Penang

Penang fruit salad in sticky prawn paste sauce

Crisp, tart fruit and cucumber tossed in a thick, glossy, sweet and savory prawn paste sauce, piled with crushed peanuts, torch ginger flower and crunchy fried crullers.

Rojak buah Penang

Rojak is the Malay word for a mixture, and Malaysians use it for far more than food: a sentence that wanders between English, Malay and Hokkien is rojak, and so, people like to say, is the country itself. On the plate, it means fruit rojak, a salad that makes no apology for putting pineapple and prawn paste in the same bowl. Crisp, sour fruits such as rose apple, green mango, guava and pineapple are cut into chunks with cucumber and jicama, then tossed in a sauce of black prawn paste, sugar, tamarind, chili and lime until every piece is shiny and dark.

Penang's version is the richest of them all. Its sauce is so thick and sweet that it is close to toffee, it is often softened with a little honey, and it is heaped with crushed peanuts and slivers of pink torch ginger flower. The hawker usually tosses it to order in a big bowl and hands it over with a skewer for spearing. It is sweet, salty, sour and hot at once, which sounds like chaos and tastes like a very good idea.

Everything can be prepared in advance and tossed together in two minutes, so it is ideal for a race weekend afternoon. Hand round the skewers and keep the napkins close.

The rojak sauce

Ingredients

Peanuts and crunchy bits

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Fruit and tossing

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