Mamak is the Malaysian name for the Tamil Muslim community and for the open fronted, round the clock restaurants they run, where people gather to eat, drink teh tarik and watch football or racing on a big screen. Mee goreng mamak is their famous fried noodle dish, a true Malaysian fusion: Chinese style yellow egg noodles, fried with an Indian Muslim hand in spices, chili paste, sweet soy and a little tomato ketchup, with fried tofu, boiled potato, egg, bean sprouts and greens, and a squeeze of lime at the end.

It is fast, cheap and made to order in minutes, which is why Malaysians eat it after midnight with the same enthusiasm as at noon. Bring it home for a night race and it will feel entirely at home on the sofa.

The sauces

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons kicap manis (sweet soy sauce)
• 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons tomato ketchup
• 1 to 2 tablespoons chili paste or sambal oelek
• 1/2 teaspoon curry powder
• 3 tablespoons water

The noodles

Ingredients

• 1 lb (450 g) fresh yellow noodles
• 1 small waxy potato
• 4 oz (115 g) firm tofu
• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 3 cloves garlic
• 2 shallots
• 6 oz (170 g) shrimp or boneless chicken
• 1 medium tomato
• 2 large eggs
• 1 cup (100 g) bean sprouts
• 2 cups (80 g) choy sum or bok choy
• 1 lime
• 2 tablespoons crisp fried shallots

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