Malaysia · Regional favorite

Kari kapitan

Penang Nyonya chicken curry

Chicken and potatoes simmered in a thick, glossy Nyonya curry of chili, lemongrass, galangal, candlenut and coconut milk, sharpened with tamarind and perfumed with lime leaves.

Kari kapitan

Every Peranakan family in Penang has a curry kapitan, and every one of them will tell you, kindly but firmly, that theirs is correct. What they agree on is the style: richer, thicker and drier than an everyday chicken curry, with a spice paste of fresh chili, shallot, lemongrass, galangal and turmeric thickened with ground candlenuts, cooked down in oil until it turns deep red, then simmered with chicken and coconut milk. A little tamarind and a handful of torn lime leaves keep all that richness bright.

The name is a small mystery the island enjoys. The favorite story has a colonial ship's captain asking his cook what was for dinner and being told, "Kari, kapitan." Historians point out, less romantically, that kapitan was a title brought by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century for a community leader, with nothing nautical about it. Either way, the curry itself is a fine example of Nyonya cooking, where Chinese, Malay and Indian kitchens long ago stopped arguing and started borrowing.

Like most curries worth the effort, it is better the next day, which makes it a natural for a race weekend: cook on the eve of qualifying and simply reheat when the cars line up on the grid.

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The spice paste

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The curry

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