Along the Moselle, where Luxembourg's vineyards run down to the river that forms its border with Germany, the riverside inns have served the same thing for generations: a heap of small fish, fried whole and crisp, with lemon wedges and a cold glass of the local white. Luxembourgers call it Fritür or, in the French of the menus, friture de la Moselle. Cutlery is optional and often ignored.

The fish were once all caught in the river itself; today most cooks use whatever small fish the fishmonger has, and smelt work perfectly. It is a dish for a long, slow afternoon, which is also a fair description of watching qualifying from a terrace, so the pairing is natural.

The fish

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lb (680 g) smelt or other small whole fish
• 2 lemons
• 1 cup (125 g) all purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 6 cups (1.4 liters) neutral frying oil
• 2 tablespoons fresh parsley

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