Liechtenstein · Sweet finish

Holdermuas

Warm black elderberry compote thickened with butter and milk

Ripe black elderberries simmered with sugar and a little cinnamon, then thickened with butter, flour and milk into a glossy, deep purple spoon pudding, served warm over buttery toasted bread or beside a bowl of Ribel.

Holdermuas

In late summer the elder bushes along the field edges of the Rhine valley hang heavy with clusters of tiny, nearly black berries, and Liechtenstein families have long turned them into Holdermuas. Holder is the local word for elder and Muas means a soft, spoonable mash. Many households rarely make it now, but it still appears at village festivals and at the Triesenberg weeks of traditional Walser cooking, usually beside a plate of Ribel, the toasted cornmeal that was once the valley's daily bread.

It sits somewhere between a compote and a pudding. The berries are cooked soft with sugar, then a little butter and flour, loosened with milk or cream, bind the juices into something thick, purple and glossy. It tastes of blackberries and red wine, with a faint earthy note that is entirely its own, and it is very good warm, poured over cubes of bread fried in butter.

Elderberries must always be cooked, and the stems, leaves and any green berries removed, because raw they can upset the stomach. Once that is done, this is one of the simplest and most beautiful desserts in the Alpine repertoire, and a fine way to end a long race afternoon.

The berries

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The Holdermuas

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Buttered bread cubes

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