Liechtenstein · Sweet finish

Dreikönigskuchen

Three Kings cake: a crown of sweet buns with a hidden king

A ring of soft, buttery lemon scented buns baked around a larger center bun, glazed and scattered with pearl sugar and almonds, with a tiny king hidden in one of them.

Dreikönigskuchen

On the sixth of January, Epiphany, bakeries across Liechtenstein and Switzerland fill their windows with the same golden crown: a ring of round sweet buns pressed around a bigger one in the middle, shining with egg glaze and crunchy with pearl sugar. Somewhere inside one bun is a small figure of a king, and whoever finds it in their piece is king or queen for the day. The custom of the bean king goes back centuries in Europe; the flower shaped Swiss version owes its revival to the bread historian Max Währen, who brought the tradition back to bakeries in the 1950s.

The dough is a classic enriched yeast dough, lightly sweet and scented with lemon, often studded with raisins and these days sometimes with chocolate chips. It is a forgiving bake and a sociable one, because the buns pull apart by hand and nobody needs a knife. Finding the king is luck; pretending not to have looked for it is diplomacy.

The dough

Ingredients

Method

  1. Warm the milk in the small saucepan over low heat until it is just lukewarm, about 100°F (38°C); it should feel barely warm on the inside of your wrist. Pour it into the large bowl, stir in the yeast and 1 teaspoon of the sugar, and leave it for 10 minutes.
  2. Add the flour, the rest of the sugar, the salt, the beaten egg and the lemon zest. Mix with the dough hook on low speed, or with the wooden spoon, until there is no dry flour left.
  3. Add the soft butter a spoonful at a time, kneading each piece in before adding the next. Then knead for 8 minutes in the mixer on medium low speed, or 10 to 12 minutes by hand on a lightly floured surface. Add the raisins or chocolate chips in the last minute.
  4. Shape the dough into a ball, put it back in the bowl, cover it with the towel or plastic wrap and leave it in a warm, draft free place for about 1 hour.

Shaping, hiding the king and baking

Ingredients

Method

  1. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and press out the air gently. Cut off about a fifth of the dough, roughly 7 oz (200 g), for the center bun. Divide the rest into 8 equal pieces, about 3 1/2 oz (100 g) each; a scale makes this easy.
  2. Push the king into one of the small pieces and close the dough around it. Shape every piece into a smooth ball: fold the edges underneath, then roll it under your cupped hand on an unfloured part of the surface until the top is taut and smooth.
  3. Line the baking sheet with parchment. Put the large ball in the middle and arrange the eight smaller balls in a ring around it, each just touching the center ball and its neighbors. Press the whole crown down lightly with your palm.
  4. Cover loosely with the towel and leave to rise for 30 to 40 minutes. Meanwhile heat the oven to 375°F (190°C) with a rack in the middle.
  5. Beat the egg yolk with the milk. Brush it gently and evenly over all the buns, then scatter the pearl sugar and sliced almonds over the top.
  6. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. If the top darkens too quickly after 15 minutes, lay a sheet of foil loosely over it.
  7. Slide the cake on its parchment onto the wire rack and let it cool for at least 30 minutes before pulling the buns apart.

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