Liechtenstein · Regional favorite

Capuns

Swiss chard parcels filled with herb dumpling dough and cured sausage, simmered in milky broth

Soft spätzle dough mixed with smoky cured sausage, bacon and fresh herbs, wrapped in chard leaves, poached in milk and broth, then finished under melted butter and mountain cheese.

Capuns

Capuns come from Graubünden, the mountain canton where the Rhine begins, and they are the pride of its kitchens: little green parcels of chard leaf wrapped around a soft dumpling dough studded with cured sausage and herbs, poached until tender and served under a blanket of cheese and browned butter. Downstream, in the Alpine Rhine valley that Liechtenstein shares with its Swiss and Austrian neighbors, the same thrifty mountain logic of dough, cheese and a little cured meat runs through Käsknöpfle and Hafalaab.

The filling is essentially spätzle batter, the same simple flour, egg and milk mixture behind Liechtenstein's cheese dumplings, given character by salsiz, a small cured and smoked sausage from Graubünden, and a handful of herbs; some families add fresh mint, which is a surprisingly good idea. Rolling them takes a little patience the first time and almost none by the tenth, which is about the point at which everyone in the kitchen starts claiming to have always known how.

The leaves

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The filling

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Rolling and simmering

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Cheese and browned butter

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