Latvia · Signature dish

Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi

Grey peas with smoked bacon and onion

Earthy, nutty grey peas, simmered until tender and smothered in crisp smoked bacon and golden onion: Latvia's national dish in one bowl.

Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi

Latvia's national dish is not trying to impress you, and that is precisely its charm. Large, speckled grey peas are soaked overnight, simmered until tender and creamy inside, then tipped into a pan of sizzling smoked bacon and onion so every pea gets a coat of smoky fat. It began as peasant food, made from a crop that grew reliably in the Baltic climate, with a little bacon to make plain things satisfying. A glass of cold kefir alongside is the classic partner.

Grey peas are eaten all year in Latvia, but especially at Christmas and New Year, when folklore says that every pea eaten means one fewer tear in the year ahead. Latvia has yet to host a Grand Prix or send a driver to the start, so the grid is still keeping a place warm. In the meantime, a bowl of these will keep anyone warm through a cold race morning.

The peas

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pick over the peas and remove any small stones. Rinse them in the colander, put them in the large bowl and cover with plenty of cold water, at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) above the peas. Leave for 8 to 12 hours.
  2. Drain and rinse the peas, put them in the saucepan with the bay leaf and cover with fresh water by 2 inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil, skim off any foam, then lower the heat, half cover and simmer for 50 to 70 minutes. Top up with hot water if they peek above the surface.
  3. Stir in the salt and simmer 5 minutes more, then drain well and remove the bay leaf.

The bacon and onion

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the peas finish, put the bacon in the cold skillet and set it over medium heat. Cook, stirring now and then, for 8 to 10 minutes.
  2. Add the onion and cook in the bacon fat for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often.
  3. Tip the drained peas into the skillet, add the pepper and stir for 2 to 3 minutes so every pea is coated in fat and heated through. Taste and add salt if needed.

To serve

Ingredients

Method

  1. Spoon the peas into warm bowls and pour each person a glass of cold kefir to drink alongside. Put the rye bread on the table.

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