Latvia · Drinks and cocktails

Raudzētas bērzu sulas

Lightly fermented birch sap with raisins and lemon

Clear, faintly sweet birch sap bottled with a few raisins, a strip of lemon peel and a spoonful of sugar, left to ferment gently into a cool, lightly fizzy, softly sour spring drink.

Raudzētas bērzu sulas

When the ground thaws in late March and the birches start to stir, Latvia goes out with a drill and a bucket. Bērzu sulas, birch sap, runs for only a few weeks, from the first thaw until the leaves open, and for generations Latvians have tapped it and drunk it fresh as the first tonic of spring. The law even sets out how a private citizen may tap a tree in a state forest. Fresh sap is barely sweet, almost like cold mineral water with a whisper of wood, and it spoils within days, so the old way of keeping it into summer was to bottle it with a few raisins or a sprig of blackcurrant and let it ferment.

What comes out is one of the most quietly refreshing drinks in Europe: pale, lightly sparkling, gently sour, with a hint of dried fruit. Nobody outside the Baltic is likely to have a birch in the garden ready to tap, but plain birch water is now sold in bottles in many health food shops and supermarkets, and it ferments in just the same way. It is a lesson in patience, and in how little a good drink needs.

Bottling

Ingredients

Method

  1. Wash the jug, sieve, funnel and bottles in hot soapy water, rinse well, then rinse them again with just boiled water from the kettle and let them drain. Everything that touches the sap must be very clean, or unwanted bacteria will spoil the drink.
  2. Pour the birch sap through the sieve into the jug. Add the sugar and stir for a minute or two until it has dissolved completely. Taste: it should be only lightly sweet, like weak lemonade without the lemon.
  3. Divide the raisins, lemon peel and mint or blackcurrant twig, if using, between the two bottles. If you are using pasteurized birch water, add half the pinch of yeast to each bottle. Pour in the sweetened sap through the funnel, leaving about 2 inches (5 cm) of space at the top. Squeeze each bottle gently to push out a little air and screw the caps on tight.

Fermenting and chilling

Ingredients

Method

  1. Leave the bottles in a cool, dark place, ideally between 60 and 68°F (16 and 20°C), for 2 to 3 days. Squeeze them once or twice a day to check the pressure.
  2. As soon as a bottle feels hard when squeezed, move it to the fridge and leave it for at least 24 hours. The cold slows the fermentation and lets the bubbles settle into the drink.
  3. Open the bottles slowly over the sink, a quarter turn at a time, letting the gas hiss out before removing the cap. Pour into glasses, leaving the raisins behind if you prefer.

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