Bornholm, Denmark's rocky island far out in the Baltic, is famous for its herring smokehouses, whose tall white chimneys stand along the coast like a row of lighthouses that have taken up a trade. Sol over Gudhjem, the sun over Gudhjem, is named for one of the island's fishing villages, and it is the most famous thing those smokehouses make possible: warm smoked herring on dark rye bread, with a bright raw yolk set on top as the sun.

It is a five minute lunch that looks like it took an afternoon, and the yolk is not decoration. Break it and it becomes the sauce, rich and silky against the salty, smoky fish and the crunch of radish and onion. Every ingredient has a job and nothing is there for show, which makes it, in its quiet way, the most Danish thing on the table.

The toppings

Ingredients

• 4 whole smoked herring
• 6 radishes
• 1/2 small red onion
• 1 small bunch chives

Assembly

Ingredients

• 4 slices dark rye bread
• 2 tablespoons (30 g) salted butter
• 4 very fresh egg yolks
• to taste flaky sea salt and black pepper

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