Denmark has sold hot dogs from little street wagons, the pølsevogne, since the first ones rolled into Aarhus in 1917, and at their peak there were more than seven hundred of them. The order every Dane knows is a ristet hotdog med det hele: a sausage browned on the griddle rather than boiled, tucked into a soft bun and finished with everything. Everything means three sauces, two kinds of onion and a row of thin sweet pickle slices, built in a particular order that the wagon owner will not discuss.

Our version makes its own remoulade and its own crisp onions, which takes twenty minutes and repays them many times over. It is the natural food for standing up, cheering and dripping a little sauce on your sleeve. Danes traditionally wash it down with cold chocolate milk, a pairing that sounds unlikely until the second bite.

Danish remoulade

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (115 g) mayonnaise
• 3 tablespoons sweet pickles
• 2 tablespoons white cabbage
• 1 teaspoon mild yellow mustard
• 1/2 teaspoon mild curry powder
• 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon pickle brine

Crisp fried onions

Ingredients

• 1 medium yellow onion
• 3 tablespoons all purpose flour
• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 cup (240 ml) neutral oil

Sausages and assembly

Ingredients

• 4 pork hot dog sausages
• 1 teaspoon neutral oil
• 4 soft hot dog buns
• 1/2 small yellow onion
• 8 to 12 thin slices sweet pickle
• to taste ketchup
• to taste mild yellow mustard

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