Denmark · Trackside classic

Flæskestegssandwich

Roast pork and crackling sandwich

Warm slices of Danish roast pork in a soft bun with sweet and sour red cabbage, pickles, mustard and a shard of crackling that announces itself across the room.

Flæskestegssandwich

Flæskesteg, roast pork with its rind scored and roasted to a glassy crackling, is one of Denmark's great national dishes and the centerpiece of many Christmas Eve dinners. The rest of the year it turns up in a bun. A flæskestegssandwich takes thick slices of that roast, piles on braised red cabbage, sliced pickles and a little mustard or remoulade, and finishes with a piece of crackling, which is the part everyone is really there for.

Danes buy them from food stalls and sausage wagons, at festivals and in train stations, and they are built for eating on your feet with a crowd around you. Making it at home means roasting a joint, which takes time but very little effort, and leaves you with leftovers you will not regret. The crunch, it must be said, is louder than most commentary.

The roast pork

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Set the pork rind side up. With the sharp knife, cut parallel lines through the rind about 1/3 inch (1 cm) apart, running across the joint so each slice will carry a strip. Cut through the rind and most of the fat but stop before the pink meat.
  2. Rub the salt firmly into every cut and over the rind, then season the meat sides with the pepper. Push the bay leaves into a few of the cuts.
  3. Set the pork on the rack in the roasting pan, rind up and level, and pour the water into the pan underneath. Roast for 1 1/2 hours for belly, or about 1 hour for loin, adding a little more water if the pan runs dry.
  4. Turn the oven up to 475°F (245°C) and roast for 15 to 25 minutes more, watching closely after 10 minutes.
  5. Move the pork to the cutting board and rest it uncovered for 15 minutes; covering it would steam the crackling soft.

Quick braised red cabbage

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the pork roasts, cut out the hard core of the cabbage and slice the leaves into very thin shreds, about 1/8 inch (3 mm).
  2. Melt the butter in the heavy pot over medium heat. Add the cabbage and stir for 3 minutes, then add the vinegar, sugar, juice and salt. Cover, turn the heat to low and cook for 45 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes. Uncover for the last 10 minutes so the liquid cooks off.

Building the sandwiches

Ingredients

Method

  1. Turn the pork rind side down, which is easier, and cut along the scored lines into slices about 1/3 inch (1 cm) thick. If the crackling is too hard to cut, lift it off in one sheet and break it into pieces with your hands.
  2. Split the buns and warm them in the oven, now switched off, for 2 minutes.
  3. Spread remoulade or mustard on the bottom of each bun. Add two or three slices of pork, a good spoonful of warm red cabbage, three pickle slices and a piece of crackling on top. Close the bun.

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