Japan · Drinks and cocktails

Umeshu

Homemade green plum liqueur, served on the rocks or with soda

Hard green ume plums steeped for months with rock sugar and clear spirit until the liquor turns amber and tastes of almond, apricot and honey, served over ice or lengthened with soda.

Umeshu

Every year in late spring and early summer, around the start of the rainy season, the markets fill with bags of hard green ume, and kitchens across the country fill large glass jars with them. The fruit is too sour and bitter to eat raw, but packed with rock sugar and covered with a clear spirit, it slowly gives up a fragrance somewhere between apricot, almond and cherry blossom. Umeshu, as the result is called, has been made in Japanese homes for around three hundred years, and the jar in the corner of the kitchen, dated in marker pen, is one of the quiet signs of a well run household.

It is often called plum wine in English, which is generous to the plum and inaccurate about the wine: nothing ferments. It is a liqueur, the fruit infused in spirit, so the sugar dissolves and the plum flavor leaches out over the months while the plums gradually shrivel. Shops sell excellent umeshu, but the homemade version has a depth and personality of its own, and many families keep jars going for years.

This is a recipe for the patient. The work takes forty minutes and the waiting takes at least three months, ideally a year. Set a jar going in early summer and it will be ready for the Japanese Grand Prix at Suzuka the following spring, which is as good a reason as any to plan ahead.

Preparing the jar and fruit

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Filling and aging

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Serving: on the rocks and umeshu soda

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