Japan · Trackside classic

Takoyaki

Osaka octopus balls with sweet savory sauce and bonito flakes

Golden balls of dashi batter, crisp outside and almost molten inside, each hiding a piece of tender octopus, finished with a dark fruity sauce, mayonnaise, green seaweed and dancing bonito flakes.

Takoyaki

Takoyaki were born in Osaka in 1935, when a street vendor named Tomekichi Endo, who was already selling little round batter snacks filled with beef or konjac, heard about an octopus version eaten in Akashi, along the coast, and started putting octopus into his own seasoned batter. His shop, Aizuya, is still open, and still serves them in the original style, without sauce. The rest of the country took a different view about sauce, and the version now sold at every festival, station and street corner comes thickly painted with a sweet, fruity brown sauce, a stripe of mayonnaise and a shower of bonito flakes that curl and wave in the heat as if alive.

The charm is in the cooking. The batter is poured into a cast iron pan with rows of round hollows, a piece of octopus is dropped into each, and then the cook works along the rows with a pair of picks, turning each half set ball a quarter turn so the raw batter runs down and forms the other half. Done fast, it looks like a magic trick; done slowly at home, it looks like a pleasant mess that improves with every ball. Many Osaka families own a pan for exactly this reason, and a takoyaki party is a standard way to feed friends.

Our recipe gives a light, savory batter built on dashi and a homemade sauce you can mix from ordinary pantry bottles. Eat them standing up, from a paper boat, but wait a moment before the first bite. The inside is hotter than the outside suggests, as every visitor to Osaka learns precisely once.

The batter

Ingredients

Fillings and sauce

Ingredients

Cooking and finishing

Ingredients

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