Japan · Regional favorite

Okonomiyaki

Osaka style savory cabbage pancakes

Thick, fluffy cabbage pancakes crowned with crisp pork belly, painted with a tangy brown sauce and striped with mayonnaise under a drift of bonito flakes and seaweed.

Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki means grilled as you like it, which tells you most of what you need to know. In Osaka, the city that wears its appetite with pride, it is a thick pancake of batter and finely chopped cabbage, with everything mixed in before it meets the griddle, and topped with thin slices of pork belly that crisp as it cooks. Grated mountain yam in the batter is the Osaka signature, and it makes the inside light and almost soufflé soft. Hiroshima, by contrast, layers its ingredients and adds noodles, and the two cities have been politely disagreeing about it ever since.

The modern dish took shape after the Second World War, when rice was scarce and a flour pancake bulked out with cabbage could feed a family cheaply and it has been a fixture of Osaka life ever since, from tiny counters with a griddle built into every table to family kitchens with the hot plate brought out for the evening. At home a heavy skillet does the job, and the flip provides a small moment of theater. Suzuka is a train ride from Osaka, so for many race fans this is the taste of a Japanese Grand Prix weekend.

Okonomiyaki sauce

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The batter

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Cooking the pancakes

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Toppings

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