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Karaage

Japanese fried chicken

Bite size pieces of chicken thigh marinated in soy, sake, ginger and garlic, coated in potato starch and fried twice until craggy, crisp and very juicy.

Karaage

Karaage is the fried chicken Japan eats everywhere: in lunch boxes, at festival stalls, beside a cold beer at the end of the day and from the hot cabinet of every convenience store. The name refers to a style of frying rather than to chicken alone. Small pieces are marinated, dredged in starch and deep fried, and the marinade of soy, sake, ginger and garlic is what sets it apart from batter fried chicken elsewhere. Its great postwar boom began in Oita Prefecture on the island of Kyushu, where the city of Nakatsu now has dozens of specialist karaage shops and is known across Japan as the holy land of the dish.

Potato starch gives a lighter, crisper and more delicate crust than flour, with little crags that catch the light. Frying twice, first gently and then hot, keeps the inside tender while the outside turns shatteringly crisp. Karaage is food you eat with your fingers or a pair of chopsticks, standing up, from a paper cup, which makes it about the most natural grandstand food ever devised. Make a double batch: the first round rarely reaches the table.

The marinated chicken

Ingredients

Method

  1. Trim off any large lumps of fat from the thighs and cut them into pieces about 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) across, roughly the size of a walnut in its shell. Keep them as even as you can so they cook at the same speed.
  2. In the mixing bowl stir together the soy sauce, sake, ginger, garlic, sesame oil and sugar. Add the chicken and massage the marinade in with your hands for 30 seconds. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Coating and double frying

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pour the oil into the deep pot and clip the thermometer to the side. Heat over medium heat to 325°F (165°C). This takes about 10 minutes.
  2. Spread the potato starch in the shallow dish. Lift the chicken pieces out of the marinade, letting the excess drip back into the bowl, and roll each one in the starch. Press lightly so it sticks, then shake off the excess. Leave the coated pieces on a plate for 2 minutes.
  3. Lower about a third of the pieces into the oil one at a time, gently, away from you. Do not crowd the pot. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once, then lift them onto the wire rack. Let the oil come back to 325°F (165°C) and fry the remaining batches the same way.
  4. Leave the fried chicken on the rack for 4 minutes. The heat inside keeps cooking the meat gently while the surface dries.
  5. Raise the heat until the oil reaches 375°F (190°C). Fry the chicken again in batches for 60 to 90 seconds, until deep golden, then return it to the rack. Check one of the largest pieces with the instant read thermometer.

Lemon and spiced mayonnaise to serve

Ingredients

Method

  1. Spoon the mayonnaise into the small bowl and sprinkle the shichimi togarashi over the top, or stir it through if you prefer an even heat. Leave it plain for children.
  2. Make a loose pile of shredded cabbage on a platter or in paper cups, heap the karaage beside it and tuck in the lemon wedges.

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