Japan · Regional favorite

Goya champuru

Okinawan stir fry of bitter melon, tofu, pork and egg

Crisp green crescents of bitter melon stir fried with golden torn tofu, pork belly and soft scrambled egg, seasoned simply with dashi and soy and finished with bonito flakes.

Goya champuru

Champuru is Okinawan for something mixed, and the word names a whole family of stir fries from Japan's southern islands, which suits a place where Ryukyuan, Chinese, Southeast Asian, Japanese and, since the Second World War, American influences have all ended up in the same pan. The best known of the family is goya champuru, built on goya, the knobbly green bitter melon that grows on vines across Okinawa through the long, hot summers. It is the island's defining home dish, the one every family makes and every small diner serves, and it has become a favorite on the mainland too.

Bitter melon is exactly what it says. Its bitterness is clean and refreshing rather than harsh, and here it is tamed by salting and balanced by rich pork, savory tofu and soft egg. In Okinawa the tofu is shima dofu, a firm, slightly salty island tofu, and the pork is as likely to be canned luncheon meat as fresh belly, a legacy of the postwar years that islanders have long since adopted as their own. We use pork belly and firm tofu, and the variations cover the rest.

It is quick, cheap and full of vegetables, the sort of dinner that makes a weeknight feel virtuous without anyone having to say so. Expect your guests to be divided on the first bite and united by the third.

Preparing the bitter melon and tofu

Ingredients

The stir fry

Ingredients

More from Japan

Scroll to Top