Italy · Signature dish

Risotto alla milanese

Saffron risotto

Creamy saffron risotto the color of a Lombard sunset, finished with butter and Parmigiano: twenty minutes of stirring that Milan considers time well spent.

Risotto alla milanese

Risotto alla milanese is Milan's golden rice: short grain rice toasted in butter, cooked slowly with broth added a ladle at a time, colored and scented with saffron and finished with cold butter and Parmigiano Reggiano until it flows across the plate in a gentle wave. The Milanese call that texture all'onda. The first written recipe appeared in a Milanese cookbook in 1829, and traditional versions begin by melting a little beef bone marrow with the onion for extra richness.

Monza sits a short drive north of Milan, and a plate of this is about as Milanese as a race weekend can taste. It also rewards exactly the qualities a good race does: steady hands, close attention and a sense of timing at the finish.

The saffron and stock

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pour the stock into the saucepan and bring it to a bare simmer over low heat. Keep it hot the whole time you cook; cold stock stops the rice cooking each time you add it.
  2. Crumble the saffron threads into the small cup with your fingers, add 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the hot stock and leave it to steep for at least 15 minutes.

The risotto

Ingredients

Method

  1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter with the marrow, if using, in the wide pan over medium low heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook gently for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often.
  2. Turn the heat to medium, add the rice and stir constantly for 2 to 3 minutes so every grain is coated with fat. This toasting, called tostatura, helps the grains keep their shape.
  3. Pour in the wine and stir until it has been absorbed and the sharp smell of alcohol has gone, about 1 minute.
  4. Add a ladleful of hot stock and stir until the rice has almost absorbed it, then add the next. Keep the risotto at a lively simmer and stir often, scraping the bottom, for 16 to 18 minutes. Halfway through, stir in the saffron and its liquid. Taste a grain from about 14 minutes.
  5. Take the pan off the heat. Add one last splash of stock so the risotto is slightly runnier than you want it. Scatter over the cold butter and the Parmigiano and beat vigorously with the wooden spoon for 30 seconds. Taste, add salt if needed, cover and leave for 1 minute.

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