Italy · Sweet finish

Panna cotta

Vanilla set cream with raspberry sauce

Cool, silky vanilla cream set with just enough gelatin to hold a gentle wobble, turned out onto the plate and dressed with a bright, sharp raspberry sauce.

Panna cotta

Panna cotta means cooked cream, which slightly overstates matters: the cream is only warmed, enough to dissolve sugar and gelatin, and then left to set in the cold. It comes from Piedmont, the region of Turin and the Alpine foothills, where the dairy is rich and the desserts are built on it, and in 2001 the region listed it among its official traditional food products. For a dish now served on every continent, it has a surprisingly short paper trail. It does not appear in Italian cookbooks until the 1960s, and it became an international restaurant staple only in the 1990s, when it quietly pushed crème brûlée off a great many American menus.

The art is all in restraint. A good panna cotta uses only enough gelatin to hold its shape when turned out, so that it trembles on the plate and melts on the tongue rather than bouncing. The older Piedmontese versions are often set over caramel; the most popular today come with a sharp fruit sauce that cuts through the cream, as here. It takes fifteen minutes of actual work and then needs at least six hours in the fridge, which makes it the most race friendly dessert imaginable: make it the night before and forget about it until the chequered flag.

The vanilla cream

Ingredients

The raspberry sauce

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Turning out and serving

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