Italy · Regional favorite

Orecchiette con le cime di rapa

Little ear pasta with turnip tops, garlic, anchovy and chili

Hand shaped semolina 'little ears' cooked in the same pot as bitter turnip greens, then tossed with olive oil, garlic, melted anchovy and chili and finished with crisp toasted breadcrumbs.

Orecchiette con le cime di rapa

Orecchiette means 'little ears', and in Puglia, the heel of Italy, they are made by hand from nothing but durum wheat semolina and water: a small piece of dough dragged under a knife and turned inside out over the thumb, so each one has a thin center and a rough rim that grips the sauce. In the narrow lanes of old Bari, women still shape them at tables outside their front doors and lay them on wooden boards to dry, a scene so photographed it has become a symbol of the whole south.

The partner every Pugliese would name first is cime di rapa, the leafy, budding tops of the turnip plant, cooked in the same water as the pasta and then tossed with garlic, anchovy, chili and a generous pour of the region's olive oil. Nobody can say for certain when the pairing began, and Puglia seems content not to know. What is certain is that it is a dish of almost nothing, made great by bitterness, salt and oil in balance.

On a race weekend it is the ideal lunch: the sauce takes as long as the pasta, the pasta can be shaped the night before, and it eats beautifully while the strategists argue about tire wear.

Handmade orecchiette

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Toasted breadcrumbs

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Greens, sauce and finishing

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