Italy · Trackside classic

Olive all'ascolana

Fried green olives stuffed with three meats

Big, mild green olives cut away from the pit in a spiral, wrapped round a filling of beef, pork and chicken cooked in white wine with Parmesan and nutmeg, then crumbed and fried until crisp.

Olive all'ascolana

In Ascoli Piceno, in the Marche, hot stuffed olives are handed out in paper cones at markets and festivals, and they arrive first at almost any family celebration. The olive is the Ascolana Tenera, a large, pale, tender variety grown around the town since Roman times and protected by its own designation of origin. Local cooks pare the flesh off the pit in one long curl, wrap it back around a filling of three meats, and fry it in a golden crumb.

The stuffing is usually credited to cooks in the town's noble households in the nineteenth century, who had plenty of roast and braised meat to use up and an olive worth the trouble. That is the thing about olive all'ascolana: they are fiddly, which is precisely why nobody ever eats only one. At home they appear in the fritto misto all'ascolana, alongside fried lamb chops, vegetables and little squares of fried custard.

They are the perfect race weekend snack, finger sized, hot, salty and best eaten standing near the stove. Make and crumb them ahead and the frying takes minutes.

The three meat filling

Ingredients

Pitting and stuffing the olives

Ingredients

Crumbing and frying

Ingredients

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