Italy · Regional favorite

Focaccia genovese

Genoese olive oil flatbread with salted dimples

A low, golden flatbread from Genoa, crisp underneath, soft and open inside, its deep dimples filled with pools of olive oil and salty brine.

Focaccia genovese

In Genoa it is called fugassa, and it is less a bread than a daily habit. Bakeries sell it by the slab, and the Genoese eat it at almost any hour, as a snack on the move or with a glass of wine, and most famously at breakfast, torn into strips and dunked into a cappuccino or caffelatte. Visitors find that last one hard to believe until they try it, after which they tend to stop arguing.

What sets the Genoese style apart is its low, flat shape, usually about an inch high, and its finish. Just before the last rise, the cook presses fingertips deep into the dough to make the characteristic dimples, which the Genoese call ombrisalli, and pours over an emulsion of olive oil, water and salt. In the oven the water steams and the oil fries, leaving the tops of the bumps golden and crisp and the dimples glistening and soft. It needs time rather than effort: about four hours from bowl to oven, mostly spent rising while you do something else, such as watching practice.

The dough

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the flour, yeast and sugar in the mixer bowl and stir. Pour in about three quarters of the water and mix on low speed with the dough hook for 2 minutes, then add the rest of the water gradually. Add the olive oil and mix for 1 minute, then add the salt. By hand, stir everything together in a large bowl with a sturdy spoon in the same order.
  2. Knead with the dough hook on medium low speed for 6 to 8 minutes. By hand, leave the dough in the bowl and, with a wet hand, repeatedly grab one side, stretch it up and fold it over the middle, turning the bowl a quarter turn each time, for 8 to 10 minutes.
  3. Move the dough to the oiled bowl and cover. After 30 minutes, wet your hand, lift one edge of the dough, stretch it up and fold it over the top; turn the bowl and repeat on all four sides, then flip the dough over. Cover again and leave for 1 hour more in a warm spot.

Shaping and the brine

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pour the 3 tablespoons of oil into the baking pan and spread it over the bottom and up the sides. Tip the risen dough into the pan, turn it over once so both sides are oiled, and gently press and stretch it toward the corners with your fingertips. It will shrink back; that is fine. Cover and leave for 45 minutes.
  2. With oiled fingers, press and stretch the dough again, this time all the way into the corners, working gently from the center outward so you do not tear it. Cover and leave for 1 hour.
  3. About 30 minutes before baking, set a rack in the lowest position and heat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Put the water, oil and fine salt in the jar and shake hard, or whisk in the small bowl, until cloudy and combined.
  4. Hold your fingers together, slightly curled, and press your fingertips firmly straight down into the dough all over, in rows, until you touch the bottom of the pan, without dragging or tearing. Make the dimples about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Pour the brine over the whole surface and tilt the pan so it runs into the dimples.
  5. Leave uncovered for 30 to 40 minutes, then sprinkle with the flaky salt.

Baking

Ingredients

Method

  1. Bake on the lowest rack for 18 to 22 minutes, turning the pan around halfway through. If the bottom is golden but the top is pale at the end, move the pan to the top rack for the last 2 to 3 minutes.
  2. Run the spatula around the edges and slide the focaccia out onto the wire rack so the base stays crisp. Brush with the extra tablespoon of oil if you like. Let it cool for at least 10 minutes, then cut into squares or strips with the serrated knife or scissors.

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