Italy · Regional favorite

Cotoletta alla milanese

Breaded veal chop fried in butter

A bone in veal chop, crumbed and fried golden in butter, served with nothing but lemon: Milan's case for doing one thing beautifully.

Cotoletta alla milanese

The cotoletta alla milanese is a veal rib chop, bone left on, pounded slightly, dipped in egg and fine breadcrumbs and fried slowly in clarified butter until the crust is deep gold and the meat inside still pale pink and juicy. Milan holds it dear enough that the city recognizes it as a traditional local product, and purists insist on the bone and the butter. No flour and no cheese in the crust: just egg, crumbs and patience. The thin, plate sized version, beaten out until it covers the plate, is nicknamed orecchia d'elefante, the elephant's ear.

Monza is Milan's racing backyard, and this is the dish the city would serve a visiting champion. It is also a lesson in heat control that any engineer would recognize: enough to color the crust, never so much that the butter burns.

The clarified butter

Ingredients

Method

  1. Melt the butter in the small saucepan over low heat and let it bubble very gently for 5 minutes without stirring. White foam will rise and milky solids will sink. Skim off the foam with a spoon, then carefully pour the clear yellow butter into a bowl, leaving the milky solids behind.

The cotolette

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pat the chops dry. With the small knife, scrape the meat and fat off the last 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) of each bone so it is clean. Make 3 small snips through the fat around the edge of each chop to stop it curling. Lay each chop between two sheets of plastic wrap and tap the meat with the mallet, working from the center out, until it is about 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) thick. Do not pound the bone.
  2. Beat the eggs in one shallow dish with a fork until no streaks of white remain. Put the breadcrumbs in the other.
  3. Dip each chop in egg, turning to coat and letting the extra drip off. Lay it in the crumbs, pile more crumbs on top and press firmly with your palm. Turn and press again. Tap off any loose crumbs. Lightly score the top in a criss cross with the back of a knife; Milanese cooks do this so the crust grips.
  4. Pour the clarified butter into the large skillet to a depth of about 1/4 inch (6 mm) and heat over medium heat to about 340°F (170°C).
  5. Lay two chops in the pan, away from you. Fry for 4 to 5 minutes without moving them, spooning a little butter over the top now and then. Turn carefully and fry for 3 to 4 minutes more.
  6. Lift the cotolette onto the rack, sprinkle with salt and rest them for 3 minutes. Fry the other two, adding a little more butter if needed.

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