Italy · Drinks and cocktails

Bicerin

Turin's layered hot chocolate, espresso and cream

Thick dark hot chocolate, a shot of espresso and a cap of cold cream, layered in a small glass in the Turin way and never stirred.

Bicerin

Turin takes chocolate seriously, and the bicerin is its proudest cup. The name is Piedmontese for 'small glass', and that is how it comes: a little clear glass showing three bands, dense hot chocolate, black espresso and a pale collar of cold cream. It grew out of an older Turin drink called bavareisa, in which coffee, chocolate and milk were simply mixed together, and it took its layered form in the eighteenth century at a small café facing the Consolata sanctuary, which has been pouring it since 1763.

The rule is that you do not stir. You sip through the cold cream into the hot coffee and the sweet chocolate beneath, and the three meet on the tongue rather than in the glass. Cavour and Alexandre Dumas are both said to have been admirers, which makes it one of the few drinks to have been enjoyed by a prime minister and a musketeer's author on the same square.

Monza is less than two hours from Turin by road, and early September in the hills can be cool in the morning. A bicerin before the lights go out is a small, civilized act of fortification.

The hot chocolate

Ingredients

The cream

Ingredients

The coffee and assembly

Ingredients

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