Italy · Trackside classic

Arancini al ragù

Sicilian fried saffron rice balls filled with meat sauce, peas and cheese

Golden, crunchy balls of saffron rice the size of a small orange, each hiding a center of slow simmered meat sauce, sweet peas and melting cheese.

Arancini al ragù

Arancini are Sicily's great street food: balls of saffron yellow rice wrapped around a filling, rolled in breadcrumbs and deep fried until they turn the color of the small oranges that give them their name. They are sold in bars and rosticcerie all over the island and eaten standing up, usually with a napkin and a degree of concentration. The classic filling is ragù with peas and a cube of cheese; the other great standard is ham with mozzarella or béchamel, and Sicilian cooks distinguish the two by shape.

The island also cannot agree on the name. In Palermo and the west they are arancine, feminine, and round; in Catania and the east they are arancini, masculine, and often shaped into a point said to echo the cone of Mount Etna. Palermo, Syracuse and Trapani eat them by the trayful on the feast of Saint Lucy on December 13, which remembers a shipment of grain that ended a famine in 1646. Making them at home is a project in stages rather than a hard one: the rice and sauce can be cooked a day ahead, the shaping is pleasantly messy, and a platter of hot arancini will hold the attention of a room far better than a formation lap.

The saffron rice

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The ragù and peas

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Shaping, coating and frying

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