Ireland · Regional favorite

Seafood chowder

Creamy Irish fish, smoked haddock and mussel chowder

A creamy, gently smoky soup of white fish, smoked haddock, salmon and mussels with potato, leek and celery, served with thick slices of buttered brown bread.

Seafood chowder

Drive the Atlantic coast of Ireland, from Kerry up through Clare, Galway and Mayo, and you will find seafood chowder on the menu of a great many of the pubs and harbor cafés you pass. It is a creamy soup thick with potato, leek and celery and generous with the day's fish: firm white fish, a little salmon, mussels steamed open in wine, and smoked haddock, which gives the bowl its quiet, smoky depth. The catch varies from kitchen to kitchen and from day to day, and the bowl is never complete without a plate of buttered brown bread beside it.

The word chowder probably comes from the French chaudron, a cauldron, and the idea of a fisherman's pot of whatever came up in the nets is shared all round the Atlantic. What Ireland adds is the pairing with its own superb seafood and its dairy, and the conviction that a bowl of it, after a wet walk on a windy headland, is close to a sacrament. At home it comes together in under an hour, and the fish goes in only at the very end, which is the single most important instruction in this recipe.

The mussels

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The chowder base

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The fish and finish

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