Ireland · Signature dish

Irish stew

Lamb, potatoes and onions simmered slowly in a covered pot until the broth turns silky and the meat gives way to a spoon.

Irish stew

Irish stew began as a farmhouse pot of whatever the land could spare: mutton from an older sheep, potatoes, onions and water, cooked gently over a turf fire for most of the afternoon. Arguments about what else belongs in it have outlasted several governments. Purists allow nothing more; many Irish kitchens add carrots, and a few add pearl barley. What everyone agrees on is the method, which is patience rather than skill.

Ours uses lamb shoulder, which is easier to find than mutton and turns tender in about two hours. Some of the potatoes are cut small so they collapse and thicken the broth, while the rest stay whole enough to hold their shape. It is a dish for a cold race weekend, when the pot can sit quietly through qualifying and ask nothing of you but a stir.

The stew

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the lamb cubes in a bowl, sprinkle over 1 teaspoon of the salt and all the pepper, and toss with your hands so every piece is coated. Wash your hands afterward.
  2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in the pot over medium high heat for 2 minutes. Add half the lamb in a single layer with space between the pieces and leave it alone for 3 minutes, then turn each piece with tongs and brown another 2 to 3 minutes. Lift onto a plate. Add the rest of the oil and brown the second batch the same way.
  3. Turn the heat to medium. Add the onions to the fat left in the pot and cook, stirring every minute, for 5 minutes, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom with the wooden spoon.
  4. Return the lamb and any juices from the plate to the pot. Add the small floury potato cubes, the carrots, the thyme and the bay leaf. Pour in the stock: it should come just level with the top of the meat. Add a little water if it does not.
  5. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, then turn the heat down to low, cover with the lid slightly ajar and cook very gently for 1 hour. Stir once or twice, and skim off any gray foam with a spoon.
  6. Lay the large waxy potato chunks on top, pushing them down into the liquid. Cover and cook gently for another 60 to 75 minutes.
  7. Fish out the thyme stems and bay leaf. Taste the broth and add the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, or more, a pinch at a time, until it tastes savory and full. Stir in most of the parsley.

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