Ireland · Sweet finish

Carrageen moss pudding

Vanilla milk pudding set with Atlantic seaweed, with poached rhubarb

A pale, softly set vanilla milk pudding, light as a mousse, thickened the old Irish way with a handful of dried seaweed from the Atlantic shore and served with tart pink rhubarb.

Carrageen moss pudding

Carrageen is a small, frilly red seaweed that grows on the rocks of Ireland's Atlantic coast; its Irish name, carraigín, means little rock. For centuries families along the shore have gathered it at low tide, dried and bleached it in the sun, and kept it in the cupboard to set milk into a pudding. It was the dish handed to anyone with a cough or a weak chest, and it appears in old invalid cookbooks for exactly that reason. Its comeback as a proper dessert owes a great deal to Myrtle Allen, who served it at Ballymaloe House in County Cork and made it a fixture of modern Irish country cooking.

The seaweed does all the work of gelatin and none of the tasting: simmered in milk, it releases a natural jelly that sets the pudding to a soft, trembling spoonful. Folding in a whisked egg white makes it lighter still, almost a cream mousse. Visitors are usually told it is seaweed after they have finished their second helping, which is the traditional order of events.

It is made the day before, so on race weekend it is waiting in the fridge, calm and cool, while everyone else panics through the pit window.

The carrageen pudding

Ingredients

Poached rhubarb

Ingredients

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