Ireland · Sweet finish

Irish apple cake with custard

A tender, buttery sponge with a thick seam of soft, cinnamon scented cooking apples baked into the middle and a crackly sugar top, served warm under a jug of homemade vanilla custard.

Irish apple cake with custard

Every Irish family seems to have an apple cake, and every one of them is certain theirs is the original. What they share is a simple, buttery sponge with sharp cooking apples baked inside it rather than on top, the detail usually said to set it apart from its English cousins. The batter goes into the tin in two layers with the sliced fruit sandwiched between them, so each slice has a soft, almost jammy band of apple running through the middle of the cake. A spoonful of demerara sugar over the top bakes into a crisp, crackling crust.

The apple of choice is a cooking apple such as the Bramley, a large, sour variety that collapses to a golden, fluffy purée when baked. Bramleys grown in County Armagh, in the orchard country of Northern Ireland, carry their own protected status and are said to be tarter still. The cake is at its best warm, with custard poured over it from a jug, which is how it ends a great many Sunday lunches. It needs an hour in the oven and almost no skill, and it fills the house with a smell that will draw people away from the television even during the closing laps.

The apple filling

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The sponge

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Baking

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The vanilla custard

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