Indonesia · Regional favorite

Pepes ikan

Sundanese spiced fish steamed and grilled in banana leaves

Fish fillets smothered in a golden turmeric, shallot and chili paste, layered with lemon basil, tomato and lemongrass, wrapped in banana leaves, steamed until tender and finished over high heat until the leaves char.

Pepes ikan

Pepes is less a single dish than a way of cooking, and it belongs above all to the Sundanese of West Java. The name comes from the Sundanese pais, and the idea is simple and clever: food is coated in a spice paste, wrapped tightly in banana leaves, steamed, then grilled over charcoal. The parcel holds every drop of juice, presses the spices into the fish and lends a faint, tea like perfume from the scorched leaves. When it is opened at the table, the steam that comes out is half the pleasure.

Almost anything can go into a pepes, from tofu and mushrooms to chicken and anchovies, but fish is the classic, and carp pepes, pais lauk emas, is the Sundanese favorite. The yellow version, colored with turmeric and fragrant with galangal and ginger, is the one most people picture, with whole leaves of lemon basil tucked inside. Versions of the method run right across the archipelago under other names, which says something about how well it works.

Fillets are easier than a whole bony carp for a first attempt, and they cook to the same soft, fragrant finish. Banana leaves sound exotic but are sold frozen in most Asian grocers, and they are the only special equipment involved.

The yellow spice paste

Ingredients

The fish parcels

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Rice and serving

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