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Pempek Palembang

Palembang fish and tapioca cakes with sweet and sour cuko sauce

Chewy, savory fish and tapioca cakes, one kind hiding a whole egg, boiled then fried golden and drowned in a dark, sweet, sour and fiery palm sugar vinegar sauce.

Pempek Palembang

Pempek is the pride of Palembang, the river city of South Sumatra on the banks of the Musi. Fresh fish is pounded smooth, worked with tapioca or sago starch into a soft, springy dough, shaped, boiled, then fried until golden. On its own it is pleasant. With cuko, the thin, black brown sauce of palm sugar, vinegar, garlic and chili that comes with it, it becomes something people travel for. The local story credits an elderly Chinese vendor, an apek, who sold fish cakes around the city long ago and gave the snack its name; it is a good story, and Palembang tells it with conviction.

There are many shapes. Lenjer is a long log, sliced. Adaan is a round ball with shallots. The star is kapal selam, the submarine, a plump pocket of dough sealed around a whole egg, which is cut open and served in a shallow bowl with yellow noodles, diced cucumber and a generous pour of cuko. In Palembang it is the snack, the light lunch and the thing you carry home for the family.

It is street food in the truest sense: cheap, filling and best eaten the moment it leaves the oil. The cuko is the part people argue over, sweeter or hotter, thicker or thinner, and the only safe answer is to make plenty.

The cuko sauce

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The fish dough

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Shaping and boiling

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Frying and serving

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