Indonesia · Sweet finish

Lapis legit

Spiced thousand layer butter cake

A dense, buttery cake of eighteen or more thin golden layers, each one browned under the grill and fragrant with cinnamon, clove, cardamom, mace and nutmeg.

Lapis legit

Lapis legit is the cake Indonesians bring when they want to make an impression. Cut a slice and you see a neat stack of fine stripes, pale gold and deep amber, each one a separate layer of rich yolk and butter batter poured into the tin and browned under a fierce top heat before the next goes on. It was born in the Dutch East Indies, where cooks in Batavia, now Jakarta, took the Dutch spekkoek and made it their own with the spices the islands had been exporting to Europe for centuries. The Dutch name, which means pork belly cake, refers to the stripes rather than the ingredients, which will reassure anyone reading the label.

Today it is the cake of the big occasions: Lebaran at the end of Ramadan, Chinese New Year, Christmas, weddings and birthdays, often given as a gift in a smart box. Bakeries in Pontianak, Bangka and Lampung have their own versions, with prunes, cheese or pandan, but the plain spiced one remains the benchmark.

It asks for patience rather than skill. Once the batter is made, the work is a calm rhythm of pour, spread, grill, press, repeat, and the reward is a cake that keeps for a week and is better on the second day than the first.

The spice blend

Ingredients

The batter

Ingredients

Building the layers

Ingredients

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