Indonesia · Drinks and cocktails

Es cendol

Iced coconut milk with pandan jelly

Soft green pandan jelly strands in iced coconut milk with a dark palm sugar syrup: a drink you sip, chew and spoon all at once.

Es cendol

Es cendol is the drink Indonesians reach for when the afternoon heat becomes a personal matter. Short, soft strands of jelly, colored green and scented with pandan leaf, sit in a tall glass with crushed ice, salted coconut milk and a dark, smoky syrup of palm sugar. In Java the whole drink is usually called dawet, and the idea is old: sweet rice flour drinks of this kind appear in a twelfth century Javanese manuscript, which makes it rather more established than most things served with a straw.

Street vendors sell it from carts and roadside stalls all over the country, ladled from big glass jars into tall glasses, often with jackfruit or durian added for good measure. It is entirely alcohol free and, made as written, vegan too. Making the jelly at home is a pleasingly hands on half hour, and once it is done, a glass for the whole grandstand takes a minute each.

The palm sugar syrup

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the palm sugar, water, pandan leaf and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar melts, then simmer gently for 5 to 6 minutes. Pour through the sieve into a jug to catch any grit, discard the leaf and let it cool.

The coconut milk

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the coconut milk, water, salt and pandan leaf in the second small saucepan over medium low heat. Stir until just steaming, about 5 minutes, without letting it boil. Remove the leaf, pour into a jug and refrigerate until cold.

The cendol jelly

Ingredients

Method

  1. Blend the pandan leaves with the 2 cups (480 ml) water on high for 1 minute. Pour through the sieve into a measuring jug, pressing hard on the pulp. Top up with water to 2 cups (480 ml) if needed. If using extract, simply stir it and the coloring into the water.
  2. In the medium saucepan, off the heat, whisk the rice flour, tapioca starch, sugar and salt. Pour in the pandan juice slowly, whisking all the time.
  3. Set the pan over medium heat and stir constantly with the spatula, scraping the bottom and corners, for 8 to 10 minutes. It will suddenly start to thicken after about 5 minutes; keep stirring through the lumpy stage until it smooths out again.
  4. Working quickly while it is hot, hold the colander over the bowl of ice water. Spoon in some of the hot paste and press it through the holes with the back of a spoon or the spatula, so short strands drop into the water. Repeat with the rest. With a zip top bag, fill it, snip a 1/4 inch (6 mm) corner and squeeze short lengths into the water, snipping them off with scissors.
  5. Leave the jelly in the ice water for 15 minutes, then drain well.

Assembling the glasses

Ingredients

Method

  1. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of palm sugar syrup into the bottom of each glass. Add a sixth of the jelly, about 1/3 cup, then fill the glass with crushed ice. Pour in about 1/3 cup (80 ml) cold coconut milk.

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