Indonesia · Trackside classic

Bakwan sayur

Crispy shredded vegetable fritters

Shredded cabbage, carrot and bean sprouts in a light garlicky batter, fried into lacy, crackling fritters and eaten with a bite of fresh green chili.

Bakwan sayur

Every Indonesian street has a gorengan cart, a glass case of fried things kept warm on a wok of oil, and bakwan sayur is usually the first thing to sell out. The name comes from Hokkien, through the Chinese Indonesian kitchen, and the idea is beautifully thrifty: whatever vegetables are on hand, shredded fine, bound with just enough batter to hold together and fried until the edges turn to lace. In West Java the same fritter goes by bala bala, and in Semarang by badak, but it is recognizable on sight anywhere.

The local habit is to eat each fritter with a whole small green chili, taking a bite of one and then the other, which is either refreshing or reckless depending on the chili. Bakwan is the snack bought in paper bags outside stadiums and at weekend markets, and it is the best possible thing to do with half a cabbage on a race morning.

The batter and vegetables

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pound the garlic, shallot and salt in the mortar for about 1 minute, or crush the garlic through a press and chop the shallot as finely as you can, then mix them with the salt.
  2. In the large bowl, whisk the flour, rice flour, coriander and pepper. Add the garlic paste and the cold water and whisk for 30 seconds.
  3. Put the cabbage, carrot, bean sprouts and green onions in the small bowl and toss them together with your hands. Pat dry with a paper towel if they look wet. Keep them separate from the batter until the oil is hot.

Frying

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pour the oil into the pot and clip the thermometer to the side. Heat over medium high heat until it reads 350°F (175°C), about 8 to 10 minutes. Set the wire rack over the baking sheet beside the stove.
  2. Tip the vegetables into the batter and fold them together with the large spoon until every strand is coated.
  3. Scoop up a heaped large spoonful of the mixture, about 1/4 cup, and slide it gently into the oil, pushing it off with a second spoon and flattening it slightly. Add 3 or 4 more, leaving space between them. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes, turn with the slotted spoon and fry for 2 to 3 minutes more. Keep the oil between 340°F and 360°F (170°C and 180°C) by adjusting the heat.
  4. Lift the fritters onto the rack to drain. Stir the batter before each batch and fry the rest the same way. You should get about 12 fritters.

To serve

Ingredients

Method

  1. Pile the fritters on a plate while they are hot. Serve with the whole green chilies for biting alongside and a bowl of chili sauce for dipping.

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