Bakso is a meatball, and also the bowl of soup it swims in, and in Indonesia it is close to a national pastime. The name comes from the Hokkien spoken by Chinese immigrants, whose pork meatballs were remade with beef and chicken for a largely Muslim country. What sets bakso apart is texture: the meat is pounded or blended with ice and a little tapioca starch into a smooth paste, so the finished balls are springy and almost bouncy, closer to a fish ball than an Italian polpetta.

It is sold everywhere, from a handcart pushed through a residential street to a crowded stall outside a football ground and a smart restaurant with a dozen variations. The meatballs are made ahead and kept hot in the cart, so a bowl is assembled in the time it takes to find your coins. A former American president remembered it as one of his favorite foods from a childhood in Indonesia, which is about as strong an endorsement as a street snack can expect. At home a food processor stands in for the pestle, and the soup is ready in about an hour.

The meatballs

Ingredients

• 1 lb (450 g) lean ground beef
• 1/3 cup (40 g) tapioca starch
• 1 egg white
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1 tablespoon fried shallots
• 1 1/2 teaspoons fine salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/3 cup (80 ml) ice cold water
• 12 cups (3 liters) water

Method

1. Put the chilled beef, garlic, fried shallots, salt, pepper, sugar and baking powder in the food processor. Process for 30 seconds, then add the egg white and half of the ice water with its ice chips and process for 1 minute. Scrape down the sides, add the tapioca starch and the remaining ice water, and process for another 1 to 2 minutes.
2. Bring the 12 cups (3 liters) of water to a boil in the large pot, then turn the heat to low so it stops bubbling. You want it hot but still, around 180°F (82°C).
3. Wet your hands. Take a handful of paste and close your fist gently so a ball of paste squeezes up between your thumb and forefinger. Scoop it off with a wet teaspoon and drop it straight into the hot water. Repeat with the rest of the paste, dipping the spoon in the bowl of water each time so the paste slides off. Aim for balls about 1 1/4 inches (3 cm) across. If shaping by fist feels awkward, roll balls between wet palms instead.
4. Once all the balls are in, turn the heat to medium and bring the water up to a very gentle simmer. Cook until all the balls float, then 3 to 4 minutes more. Check one with the thermometer.
5. Lift the meatballs into the bowl of iced water with the slotted spoon and leave for 2 minutes, then drain. Keep the poaching water; skim off any grey foam and use 4 cups (960 ml) of it in the broth.

The broth

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) neutral vegetable oil
• 6 garlic cloves
• 4 cups (960 ml) low sodium beef stock
• 4 cups (960 ml) meatball poaching water
• 1 teaspoon ground white pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 1 to 2 teaspoons fine salt

Method

1. Put the oil and sliced garlic in the small frying pan together, cold, and set over medium low heat. Cook, stirring often, for 4 to 6 minutes. Watch closely at the end, because it goes from golden to burnt quickly.
2. Pour the stock and poaching water into the medium pot. Add half of the fried garlic with its oil, the white pepper, nutmeg and sugar. Bring to a boil, then simmer gently for 10 minutes. Taste and add salt until it is well seasoned. Keep the rest of the fried garlic for the top.
3. Add the meatballs to the broth and simmer for 5 minutes, until hot right through.

Noodles, greens and toppings

Ingredients

• 3 oz (85 g) dried rice vermicelli
• 7 oz (200 g) fresh yellow egg noodles
• 2 heads of baby bok choy
• 1 cup (100 g) fresh bean sprouts
• 2 scallions
• 2 tablespoons Chinese celery leaves
• 3 tablespoons fried shallots
• to serve sambal, kecap manis and lime wedges

Method

1. Put the rice vermicelli in the heatproof bowl and cover with just boiled water. Leave for 5 to 6 minutes, then drain in the colander.
2. Bring the large pot of water back to a boil (top it up if needed). Loosen the egg noodles with your fingers and boil them for 1 to 2 minutes, or as the packet says for dried ones, then lift them out with the slotted spoon into the bowls. Drop the bok choy into the same water for 1 minute and the bean sprouts for 20 seconds, then lift them out.
3. Divide the vermicelli and egg noodles among the four bowls. Add the bok choy and bean sprouts. Ladle in 5 or 6 meatballs per bowl, then pour over plenty of hot broth. Scatter with scallions, celery leaves, fried shallots and the reserved fried garlic.

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