Indonesia · Regional favorite

Ayam taliwang

Lombok grilled chicken in fiery chili paste

Chicken roasted, gently flattened, simmered in a red chili and shrimp paste sambal, then charred under high heat: Lombok's hottest export, and proud of it.

Ayam taliwang

Ayam taliwang takes its name from Karang Taliwang, a neighborhood of Mataram, the main city on the island of Lombok, where it has been grilled for decades and where at least one family still claims its invention. The method is unusual and clever. The chicken is cooked partway, pressed with a pestle so its fibers open up, soaked in a thick sambal of chilies, shallots, garlic, tomato and shrimp paste, and then grilled again until the coating chars. The flavor is sweet, savory and very, very hot, in roughly that order of arrival.

Lombok is also home to the Mandalika street circuit, which began hosting MotoGP on the island's south coast in 2022, so this is the dish we would cook with a racing island in mind. It is traditionally made with a small, lean village chicken, eaten with steamed rice and a plate of plecing kangkung, water spinach under more chili. Our home version uses chicken thighs and legs and the oven broiler, and lets you choose how much fire to bring.

The chicken

Ingredients

Method

  1. Make two cuts about 1/2 inch (1 cm) deep across the thickest part of each piece of chicken, down to the bone. Rub all over with the lime juice and salt and leave for 15 minutes while you heat the oven and make the paste.
  2. Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Arrange the chicken on the rack over the lined baking sheet and roast for 20 minutes.
  3. Lift each piece onto a board and press it firmly two or three times with the pestle or rolling pin, enough to flatten it slightly and crack the surface, not to break the bone or shred the meat.

The taliwang paste

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put both kinds of chili, the shallots, garlic, tomato, kencur, candlenuts and terasi in the food processor with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Blend for 1 to 2 minutes, scraping down the sides.
  2. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in the skillet over medium heat. Add the paste and fry, stirring often, for 8 to 10 minutes. Turn on the extractor fan; frying chilies can make you cough.
  3. Stir in the palm sugar, salt and water and bring to a simmer.

Simmering and charring

Ingredients

Method

  1. Add the pressed chicken to the skillet and turn each piece with the tongs until it is coated. Cover, turn the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, turning the pieces once halfway.
  2. Turn the oven to broil on high and move a rack about 6 inches (15 cm) below the element. Put the chicken back on the rack over the baking sheet, spoon most of the paste over the top, and broil for 5 to 6 minutes. Turn the pieces, brush with the remaining paste and broil for 5 to 6 minutes more. On an outdoor grill, cook over medium heat for the same time, turning and basting.
  3. Let the chicken rest for 5 minutes before serving, with the lime wedges alongside.

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