India · Regional favorite

Rogan josh

Kashmiri braised lamb in red chili and yogurt sauce

Lamb on the bone braised slowly with whole spices, fennel, ginger and yogurt until meltingly tender, in a sauce colored a deep, glowing red by mild Kashmiri chilies.

Rogan josh

Rogan josh is the signature dish of Kashmir, the cool mountain valley in India's far north. It came from Persia with the Mughal emperors, who spent their summers in Kashmir to escape the heat of the plains, and the valley's cooks made it their own. Lamb or mutton on the bone is braised slowly with whole cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and bay, ground fennel and dried ginger, and yogurt, while Kashmiri chilies give the sauce its famous red, more color than fire. It is one of the great dishes of the wazwan, the many course Kashmiri feast laid out for celebrations.

Nobody quite agrees on the name. One reading takes it from Persian words meaning stewed in oil or ghee; another from Kashmiri words that make it red meat or red juice. Kashmiri versions famously often contain no tomatoes, and sometimes no onion or garlic either, which surprises anyone raised on restaurant curries; the depth comes from the spices, the yogurt and long, slow cooking. It asks for two hours of mostly leaving it alone, which happens to be about the length of a Grand Prix.

The spiced yogurt

Ingredients

The lamb braise

Ingredients

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