India · Regional favorite

Masala dosa

Crisp fermented rice and lentil crepe filled with spiced potato, with coconut chutney

A golden, paper thin crepe of fermented rice and lentil batter, crisp at the edges and tangy within, folded around turmeric yellow potatoes with mustard seed, curry leaves and onion, with a fresh coconut chutney.

Masala dosa

Dosa, a thin crepe of fermented rice and black lentil batter, has been eaten in South India for many centuries. The masala dosa, with its filling of spiced potato, is younger, since potatoes only reached India with the Portuguese in the sixteenth century, and in its modern form it belongs to the vegetarian restaurants of the Udupi tradition, founded by cooks from the temple town of Udupi on the Karnataka coast. One of them, Krishna Rao, who ran the celebrated Udupi Sri Krishna Vilas on Mount Road in Madras and later the Woodlands hotels, is widely credited with making it the city's favorite in the 1930s and 1940s. It went on to become breakfast, lunch and a late night snack across India and far beyond, and a good one is still a small event.

The magic is in the batter. Rice and lentils are soaked, ground, and left overnight in a warm place to ferment, which makes the batter light, slightly sour and full of flavor, and lets it crisp up on a hot griddle into a lacy, golden sheet. The filling is simple and bright: potatoes crushed with onion, ginger, green chili, turmeric, and a tempering of mustard seeds, lentils and curry leaves crackled in hot oil. A cooling coconut chutney goes alongside.

It asks for a little planning and a little practice, because the first dosa, as every South Indian cook will tell you, is always for the pan. By the third you will be spreading the batter in confident spirals, which is a deeply satisfying skill to have acquired on a race weekend.

The fermented batter

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The potato masala filling

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Coconut chutney

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Cooking the dosas

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