India · Sweet finish

Chawal ki kheer

Slow cooked cardamom rice pudding

Basmati rice simmered slowly in whole milk until creamy and blush colored, scented with cardamom, saffron and rose, and scattered with pistachios.

Chawal ki kheer

Kheer, from the Sanskrit word for milk, is rice slowly simmered in milk with sugar and cardamom until the milk thickens and the rice all but dissolves into it. It is among the oldest sweets in India, long served in Hindu temples as an offering, and it appears at every festival, wedding and birthday from Delhi to the far south, where it goes by the name payasam. In North India it is the sweet a grandmother makes when she wants the house to smell of home.

There is no trick to kheer, only patience: an hour of gentle simmering and frequent stirring, during which the milk reduces by half and turns faintly golden. That makes it a natural companion to a race, since it can be stirred during the slow laps and left alone during the exciting ones. It is lovely warm, but many think it even better cold from the fridge the next day.

The kheer

Ingredients

Method

  1. Rinse the rice in the sieve until the water runs clear, then soak it in water for 20 minutes and drain. Warm 3 tablespoons of the milk and pour it over the saffron in the small bowl to steep.
  2. Rinse the saucepan with cold water, which helps stop milk sticking, and pour in the rest of the milk. Bring it to a boil over medium high heat, stirring now and then and watching closely.
  3. Add the rice and turn the heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, for 45 to 50 minutes, stirring every few minutes and scraping the bottom and sides of the pan. Stir in any skin that forms; it adds richness.
  4. While it simmers, crack the cardamom pods, tip out the black seeds and crush them to a powder in the mortar. Discard the husks.
  5. Stir in the sugar, cardamom and saffron milk and simmer 5 minutes more, stirring. Turn off the heat and stir in the rose water.

The nut topping

Ingredients

Method

  1. Melt the ghee in the small skillet over medium low heat. Add the almonds and pistachios and stir for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the raisins for 30 seconds.
  2. Let the kheer cool for 30 minutes, stirring now and then, then spoon into bowls and scatter with the nuts.

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