India · Trackside classic

Kathi roll

Kolkata egg paratha rolled around spiced chicken kebab, onion and chili

A flaky, griddled paratha with a layer of egg cooked onto one side, wrapped around charred, yogurt marinated chicken kebab, sharp lime soaked onion, green chili and a lick of chili sauce, then rolled in paper.

Kathi roll

The kathi roll comes from Kolkata, and its story leads back to one restaurant, Nizam's, which began as a stall selling kebabs and parathas and became a proper eatery in 1932, near the city's New Market. The usual tale is that customers in a hurry, or perhaps too fastidious to handle a greasy kebab with their fingers, wanted something they could hold, so the cooks rolled the kebab up in a paratha and handed it over in paper. Nobody has documented the exact moment, but the idea was a triumph, and for decades Nizam's had the field to itself.

The name came later. In the 1960s the restaurant replaced its heavy iron skewers, which were costly to buy in the numbers needed to keep up with demand, with bamboo sticks, and kathi is Bengali for stick. The sticks gave their name to the kebab and then to the roll, and the word has since been applied to almost any filling wrapped in Indian flatbread. In Kolkata, though, people tend to call it simply a roll, and the classic is this one: an egg cooked straight onto the paratha on the griddle, then chicken, raw onion, green chili and lime.

Every part can be made in advance, and the rolls are assembled in minutes on a hot pan, which makes them ideal for a race weekend. They are also very good eaten with one hand while the other holds a cup of tea, which is a thoroughly civilized way to have lunch.

The chicken kebab

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The onion and chili

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The parathas

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Egg, rolling and wrapping

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