India · Sweet finish

Gulab jamun

Milk dumplings in rose and cardamom syrup

Soft, spongy balls of milk dough fried slowly to a deep mahogany, then soaked in a warm syrup scented with rose water and cardamom until they are heavy with sweetness.

Gulab jamun

Gulab jamun is the sweet that turns up at almost every Indian celebration: weddings, birthdays, Diwali and the arrival of anyone important. Small balls of dough made from milk solids are fried slowly in ghee or oil until dark and glossy, then dropped into warm sugar syrup flavored with cardamom and rose water, where they swell and soak it up until they are soft right through. The name comes from Persian, gulab for rose water and jamun for a dark purple Indian fruit of about the same size and color, and the sweet itself is thought to have taken shape in the kitchens of the Mughal era.

The traditional dough is made with khoya, milk simmered for hours until it becomes a soft, fudgy paste. Most home cooks today use milk powder instead, which gives an excellent result in a fraction of the time and is the method here. The technique is gentle rather than difficult: a soft, crack free dough, patient frying on low heat, and a syrup that is warm, not boiling. Done well, they are one of the great sweet things of the world, and a single one is never quite enough, which is a lesson in restraint few race weekends are equipped to teach.

The rose and cardamom syrup

Ingredients

The milk dough balls

Ingredients

More from India

Scroll to Top