India · Sweet finish

Gajar ka halwa

Slow cooked carrot pudding with milk, cardamom, ghee and nuts

Grated carrots cooked slowly in reduced milk until soft and jammy, sweetened, scented with cardamom, roasted in ghee and finished with golden cashews, pistachios and plump raisins.

Gajar ka halwa

In North India, winter has a smell, and much of it is ghee and cardamom coming from pots of gajar ka halwa. When the cold months arrive in Delhi and Punjab, so do the deep red winter carrots, sweeter and juicier than the orange kind, and households buy them by the bagful to grate and cook down slowly with milk and sugar. The result is not a pudding in the Western sense, nor a jam, but something in between: soft strands of carrot bound in caramelized milk solids, glossy with ghee and studded with nuts. In Punjabi it is often called gajrela, and visiting anyone's home in a Delhi winter without being offered a bowl would be faintly alarming.

It is also a festival sweet, made for Diwali, Holi, Raksha Bandhan and Eid, and sold warm by the tray in sweet shops. Some versions are enriched with khoya, milk cooked down to a fudgy paste; the home style we follow reduces whole milk in the pan instead, which gives a lighter, cleaner taste and asks for nothing more exotic than carrots, milk, sugar, ghee and cardamom.

There is no shortcut around the stirring. Grating takes a quarter of an hour and the cooking about an hour and a half, much of it with a spoon in your hand, but it is gentle, fragrant work, and the kitchen smells wonderful long before it is done. Orange carrots make a very good halwa; red ones, if you find them at a winter market, make an unforgettable one.

Carrots and milk

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Sweetening and roasting

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The nut garnish

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