India · Trackside classic

Aloo tikki chaat

Crisp potato patties with yogurt and chutneys

Golden, crackling potato patties smashed on the plate and drowned in cool yogurt, green chutney and sweet tamarind, then showered with onion, spice and crunch.

Aloo tikki chaat

Chaat is the family of North Indian street snacks built on contrast, and the word comes from the Sanskrit for tasting, or, more vividly, licking. Its home is Uttar Pradesh, the state where the Buddh circuit stands, and aloo tikki chaat is one of its stars: potato patties fried on a wide griddle until crisp, broken open on the plate, and buried under yogurt, spicy green chutney, sweet and sour tamarind, raw onion and a sprinkle of tangy chaat masala.

Every mouthful is hot and cold, soft and crunchy, sweet, sour and spicy at once, which is why Delhi crowds stand three deep at the best stalls. At home it is a fine thing to assemble at the table while a race unfolds, each plate built to order. Make the chutneys ahead and the whole affair takes as long as a safety car period.

Green chutney

Ingredients

Method

  1. Blend everything to a smooth, pourable sauce, adding the water a spoon at a time.

Sweet tamarind chutney

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put everything in the small saucepan and simmer over medium low heat for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often. It thickens as it cools.

The potato patties

Ingredients

Method

  1. Boil the potatoes whole in their skins in salted water for 20 to 25 minutes, until just tender. Drain, cool, then refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Peel.
  2. Grate the potatoes on the large holes of the box grater into the bowl. Add the cornstarch, cumin, chaat masala, chili powder, salt, cilantro and peas and knead gently with your hand until it holds together.
  3. Oil your palms lightly and shape the mixture into 8 balls, then press each into a flat patty about 3 inches (8 cm) across and 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick, smoothing any cracks at the edges.
  4. Heat the oil in the skillet over medium heat until it shimmers. Fry 4 patties at a time for 5 to 6 minutes on the first side without moving them, then turn gently with the spatula and fry 5 minutes more. Drain on paper towels.

Assembly

Ingredients

Method

  1. Whisk the yogurt with the sugar, salt and a spoonful of water until smooth and pourable.
  2. Put 2 hot patties on a plate and press the middle of each with the back of a spoon to crack them open. Spoon over the yogurt, then drizzle with green chutney and tamarind chutney. Scatter with onion, roasted cumin, chaat masala, sev, cilantro and pomegranate seeds.

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