Hungary · Regional favorite

Túrós csusza

Noodles with curd cheese, sour cream and crisp bacon

Hot, torn egg noodles tossed with crumbly fresh curd cheese, crowned with cold sour cream and showered with sizzling bacon and its fat: Hungarian comfort in one bowl.

Túrós csusza

Túrós csusza is one of the plainest and best loved dishes in Hungarian home cooking. Small pieces of egg pasta, traditionally torn by hand from a sheet of dough, are boiled and drained, then layered while hot with túró, the fresh, crumbly curd cheese that turns up everywhere in Hungarian kitchens. Cold sour cream goes on top, and over everything comes a spoonful of crisp bacon pieces and their hot fat. The name is usually traced to the verb csúszik, to slide, which is a fair description of how quickly it disappears.

It belongs to a whole family of Hungarian pasta dishes, savory and sweet, and it is served as a main course, as a side, sometimes beside fried catfish, and in some homes with sugar instead of bacon as a pudding. Hot pasta, cool cheese, cold cream and crackling bacon make a combination of temperatures and textures that is far greater than its humble parts suggest. It takes about half an hour, which leaves the rest of the afternoon for the race.

The bacon

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the bacon pieces in the cold frying pan, then set it over medium low heat. Cook for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring every few minutes, as the fat melts out and the pieces crisp.
  2. Lift a few pieces onto paper towels to drain for garnish, leaving the rest in the fat. Turn the heat to the lowest setting to keep it hot. Stir in the paprika off the heat just before serving, if using.

The pasta and cheese

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the cheese in the medium bowl and break it up with the fork into small crumbs, about the size of peas. Season with a pinch of salt.
  2. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and add the salt. Add the pasta and cook according to the packet, usually 6 to 9 minutes, stirring now and then so the pieces do not stick together.
  3. Drain the pasta well in the colander, then tip it straight back into the hot pot. Pour over about 2 tablespoons of the hot bacon fat and toss so every piece is lightly coated.
  4. Divide the hot pasta among warm plates or put it in a warm serving dish. Scatter the cheese over it, spoon the sour cream on top, then pour over the remaining hot bacon and fat. Finish with the reserved crisp pieces, a grind of black pepper and the herbs.

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