Hungary · Sweet finish

Hideg meggyleves

Chilled sour cherry soup with cinnamon and cream

Sour cherries simmered with cinnamon, cloves and lemon peel, thickened with sour cream into a pale pink, velvety soup and served ice cold on a summer day.

Hideg meggyleves

Hungarians have a habit that surprises visitors: in summer, lunch may well begin with a bowl of cold fruit soup. The most popular of them all is meggyleves, made only with sour cherries, the tart, bright red fruit of early summer. The cherries are simmered briefly with sugar, a stick of cinnamon, a few cloves and a strip of lemon peel, then the liquid is thickened with sour cream and flour, which turns it a soft, milky pink. It is chilled until it is properly cold and eaten with a spoon, whole cherries and all.

Whether it is a starter or a dessert is a question Hungarians have never felt the need to settle. It is sweet enough to finish a meal and sharp enough to begin one, and on a hot afternoon it does both jobs with equal grace. A splash of red wine is a popular addition for grown ups. Make it the night before, and it waits patiently in the fridge, unlike anything else on race weekend.

The cherry base

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The cream thickening

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Chilling and serving

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