Hungary · Signature dish

Halászlé

Fisherman's soup with paprika and river fish

A brilliant red, fiery paprika broth made by cooking fish bones down with a mountain of onions, pressed smooth and then used to poach thick slices of carp, served with white bread and hot pepper.

Halászlé

Halászlé is the soup of Hungary's two great rivers, the Danube and the Tisza, and for generations fishermen cooked it in a kettle hung over a fire on the riverbank. It begins with the less glamorous parts of the catch, heads, bones and tails, simmered with a startling quantity of onion, a green pepper, a tomato and a great deal of paprika until everything collapses. That base is pressed through a sieve into a smooth, brick red broth, and thick slices of carp are poached in it for the last few minutes. It is among the hottest dishes in European cooking, and it is meant to be.

The towns along each river defend their own versions with real feeling. In Baja on the Danube the soup is made mostly with carp and served with thick ribbons of homemade pasta; in Szeged on the Tisza it uses a mixture of river fish. Across the country, it is the dish on the table on Christmas Eve, and riverside fairs hold cooking contests where the kettles bubble side by side and the judging is taken more seriously than most stewards' decisions.

The fish base

Ingredients

Poaching the fish

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For the table

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