Hungary · Trackside classic

Sajtos pogácsa

Flaky cheese scones

Small, flaky Hungarian cheese scones with a crisp cheese crust, made to be carried in a paper bag and eaten one after another until the bag is empty.

Sajtos pogácsa

Pogácsa is the small savory scone of Hungary, sold in every bakery and baked at home for guests, train journeys and long afternoons. There are dozens of kinds, flavored with crackling, potato or caraway, but the cheese version, sajtos pogácsa, is the one most likely to disappear first. Folding the dough a few times gives it flaky layers, and a scoring of the top lets it rise into neat little towers.

It is the ideal grandstand snack. It needs no plate, tastes as good cool as warm, and survives a hot afternoon at the Hungaroring far better than anything involving chocolate.

The dough

Ingredients

Method

  1. In the large bowl, mix the flour, yeast, sugar and salt. Add the cold butter cubes and rub them into the flour between your fingertips, lifting the mixture as you go, for about 3 minutes.
  2. Stir in 1 cup (100 g) of the cheese. Add the sour cream, warm milk and egg yolk and mix with a fork, then press it together with your hand and knead briefly in the bowl for 2 minutes.
  3. Cover the bowl and leave it in a warm place for 30 minutes.
  4. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a rectangle about 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick. Fold it in thirds like a business letter, turn it a quarter turn, and roll it out again. Repeat the rolling and folding 3 times in all. Finally roll it to 3/4 inch (2 cm) thick.

Shaping and baking

Ingredients

Method

  1. Use the tip of the knife to score a criss cross pattern over the whole surface of the dough, about 1/8 inch (3 mm) deep and 1/4 inch (6 mm) apart.
  2. Cut out rounds with the cutter, pressing straight down without twisting so they rise evenly. Set them 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart on the lined baking sheets. Gather the scraps, press them together gently, roll and cut again.
  3. Cover loosely with a towel and leave for 30 minutes. Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C) during this time.
  4. Brush the tops with beaten egg, taking care not to let it drip down the sides, and scatter over the remaining 1/2 cup (50 g) of cheese. Bake one sheet at a time in the middle of the oven for 18 to 20 minutes.

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