Germany · Signature dish

Schwäbische Maultaschen

Swabian pasta parcels filled with meat and spinach, in broth or with browned onion butter

Large, tender squares of fresh egg pasta filled with seasoned pork and beef, smoked ham, spinach and herbs, poached gently in clear beef broth and served in the bowl with chives, or topped with onions browned in butter.

Schwäbische Maultaschen

Swabia, the hilly southwest corner of Germany around Stuttgart, is famous for engineers, thrift and the conviction that a dish should be wrapped in pasta whenever possible. Maultaschen are its proudest example: big, square parcels of fresh egg pasta, about the size of a palm, stuffed with minced meat, smoked ham, spinach, soaked bread, onion and herbs. Since 2009 Schwäbische Maultaschen have been protected in the European Union as a regional specialty.

They also carry the best nickname in German food. Swabians call them Herrgottsbscheißerle, roughly the little ones that cheat the Lord, from the story that monks at Maulbronn Abbey hid meat inside pasta so it could not be seen during Lent. Food historians have found no evidence for it in the abbey's records and suspect the tale is fairly modern, but it is far too good a story for anyone in Swabia to give up.

There are two classic ways to eat them: floating in clear beef broth with chives, or geschmälzt, topped with onions fried golden in butter and served with Swabian potato salad. This recipe gives you both. It is a happy afternoon's work, and once made they freeze perfectly, which is the most Swabian thing about them.

The pasta dough

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The filling

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Shaping the parcels

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Poaching and serving in broth

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Geschmälzt: with browned onion butter

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